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Gerbil Care - Still being developed

There are many sites on-line that offer care tips for gerbil owners, as well as tons of books.  Therefore, I will just hit the highlights here.  More specific questions will be answered in a FAQ in the near future.  If you have a specific question that is not answered here, please feel free to contact me.  If I don't know the answer, I will do my best to find the answer for you.


Background Species Information

Mongolian Gerbils - Known in scientific realms as Meriones Unguiculatus, which means "little clawed warrior", gerbils are members of the rodent family. Gerbils that we see in this country are actually Mongolian Gerbils.  Though they originated in Mongolia, gerbils have been in this country since 1954.  Dr. Victor Schwentker brought them here for use in research.   A semi-desert species, gerbils have long legs for jumping and running.  Their teeth grow continually through out their lives and are suited for eating hard shelled seeds as well as gnawing and chewing.  They use their teeth to assist them in creating suitable nests from plant materials.  In captivity, it is important to offer suitable chewing diversions in order for the gerbils to wear down new tooth growth.   Like mice and rats, they have a long tail that they use for balance.  Unlike mice and rats, gerbil tails are fully haired and have a tuft on the end.  They do have some predators, but the harshness of their native climate limits those predators to mostly raptors and snakes.

In the wild, gerbils dig long tunnels with their strong legs in which to place their nests and live in multi-generational clans.  Typically, only one pair mates.  The other members of the clan assist in raising the pups.  In captivity, gerbils need to live in pairs, trios or occasionally small clans.  It is usually best not to have two breeding age females in the same enclosure, as they may fight for the attention of the male.  Having two breeding age males with one female is less of a problem.  In same gender enclosures, it is best to have two females (a couple).  Males may have three/trios more easily.  If you do not intend to breed your gerbils, the best situation is to get two siblings of the same gender at 6 weeks or so, and pair them (trio them) as life companions.

Longevity - Gerbils in the wild live 2-4 years.  In captivity, they can live 3-5 years with proper care.  Diet is a major factor in gerbils longevity.  Not enough protein reduces their lives, while too much fat causes obesity and the illnesses related to it.  Gerbils cannot digest chocolate; it is toxic to them, as it is to dogs and other mammals generally kept as pets. 

How Do They Differ from Other Common Pet Rodents - In general, because they are a desert species, gerbils are cleaner than other rodents.  They take in less water, and therefore make less urine.  They do need a constant source of fresh water, though.  Their feces (poops) are drier and smaller than most other pet rodents for the same reason.  They don't waste water by having soft feces.  All the water is removed and recycled in the body.  This means that their habitats smell nicer longer. 

Mice and rats do have tails, though their tails are not furry and certainly not tipped.  Mice tend to also have slightly less smelly droppings than hamsters and guinea pigs.  Mice and rats also have the chewing need to keep their teeth shortened.

Hamsters and Guinea Pigs tend to be more aromatic.  They make more urine and feces, and the feces tend to be a little softer.  Typically, hamsters and Guinea Pigs have very short (if any) tails.  They do chew, but not as frequently or to such as extent as gerbils do.  I have found hamsters to be slightly easier to hand tame, but I have never owned Guinea Pigs.  Guinea Pigs tend to be bigger.

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Getting started with Gerbil Ownership

Before you choose your new friends, give some thought to their needs.  They need to be checked on several times a day (to make sure they have enough water and food, as well as whether they need something to chew.)  Gerbils also seem to do better if kept in a room with moderate traffic, but little draft.  For me, this means my home office.  I can hear them as I work, and can tell when they need something new to chew.  I take them out and handle them during the day (as much for me as for them.)

Think about whether you want a matched gender pair (non-breeding) or whether you are willing to put in the work to have a breeding pair.  This includes placing the pups when they are born.  Check your area to see if the local pet stores accept pups (in case you don't find homes for all the pups).  Make sure the pet stores you are considering take good care of the gerbils they have: keep them with matched gender tank mates, use appropriate bedding and accessories, etc.

Being a responsible pet owner includes not only proper housing, but also placement for any pups, pet sitter arrangements when you need to be out of town, daily hands-on interaction, and medical services. 

Local Laws relating to Gerbils - Some state (California is one) prohibit the ownership of exotic pets without a special license.  Please investigate and see whether your state/city/locality has such a law.   AGS does not accept rodentry registration for breeders in states which prohibit gerbils, so if there is a listing for AGS Breeders in your state, then there is no state law against Gerbils. 

Adopting Gerbils

Gerbil pups are about the cutest thing in the world.  Seeing them play, eat Cheerios, hang from momma as they nurse.  How can anyone resist?  But how do you find the right gerbils for you?  First, remember that gerbils are highly social.  While they need human companionship, they need gerbil companionship too.  If you don't intend to breed, please get a matched gender pair.  It is easiest if they are from the same litter (i.e. either brothers or sisters).  If they have been raised together, you don't have to worry about introducing them.

Look for bright eyes, sleek fur, and clean undersides.  Dull eyes or patchy fur indicate sickness.  A damp/dirty underside may indicate wet tail.  They should be active and inquisitive within moments of waking up.  Watch the breeder as he/she handles them.  Do they look afraid?  Or are they climbing around investigating the arms, shoulders, pockets of their breeder?  Do they sit in his/her hand and look about the room when they get tired of exploring.   Are their tanks clean and smell fresh?  While gerbils don't need their tanks cleaned but once every three weeks or so (so there will be poops in there), there should be no mold or large wet spots.  Non-breeding tanks should have a house of some sort, and maybe some toys.  Breeder tanks should be much more basic (nothing under which a pup could get trapped.

Handling Gerbils

Handling gerbils is great fun.  First, hold out your hand palm side up.  Some gerbils will jump right in.  Others may need to be "scooped" up.  With either one or both hands, keeping the palm facing up, follow the gerbil toward a corner, so that he has no choice put to hop on.  Some gerbils (Lisa, I am  talking about you) like to play with their handlers and consider it a great game to try to evade being picked up, but if the handler stops trying, they mope because the game is over and they really did want to be out. 

Never swoop down on a gerbil and snatch it from above.  This mimics the action of hawks, which could easily scare a gerbil.  The only time I resort to the "swooping" method is with closed eyed pups.  I scoop while I swoop, because I need to have them between two hands, or they may fall and be injured.  I also continue this until they are used to seeing (3 days or so after their eyes open.  As an alternative, I keep a clean plastic food bin so that I can scoop them into the bin and carry them that way.  It also gives me the opportunity to take pictures of the whole litter when they are small.

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